Southern Alberta - Waterton NP and Jumping Buffaloes

July 15th to 18th - Days 46-49

 Bighorn Sheep love to run along he roadways.

It’s all about the destination.  Norman chose this location, Lee Creek Campground in Cardston, Alberta, because of its proximity to both the Canadian side of Glacier National Park ( Waterton National Park ) and another very strangely named place called Head-Smashed-in Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 We had never heard of such a place until some friends described it last year. They loved it! They said we had to go.  The name itself conjures up some nasty images, which in fact, are not that far off.

Head-Smashed-in Buffalo Jump is possibly the oldest, largest and best preserved of the many buffalo jump sites across the Western Plains.

The children danced as well

Here, in this award winning interpretive center, through an educational movie re-enactment, 5 levels of exhibits and self-guided tours, visitors are taught how this ancient communal hunting ground was used for over 6000 years. On Wednesdays (which is why we are here today)  Native Peoples in their beautiful regalia, demonstrate their native dances.

The beading done on their clothing was incredible.
What talent and patience!

This fellow is a Contemporary Dancer who has won many awards. 

Let me try to explain what we learned, at least about the Buffalo Jump.

The Napi People or early Plains People obviously had to survive in this very environmentally harsh area. Their tribal belief was that the Buffalo were created and put on earth intentionally for their survival, but the problem was killing enough of them for the hundreds of People in their communities to last through the very long winter.   Here was a perfect spot due to the geological characteristics of the land.

Where the Buffalo leapt to their deaths.  This has, over
the last 6000 years, eroded away from the original 60 foot drop.

This fellow reminds me of Whoopi Goldberg.  Sorry, Whoopi!

Large Buffalo herds would naturally gather here around The Olsen Creek Basin.  Nearby, there was a cliff with a drop of about 60 feet, and below it was a rolling prairie, where the woman could wait to process the fallen animals.  This was an event where several tribes would come together for what they depended on – a massive Buffalo kill. These Buffalo would hopefully provide enough meat to provide nourishment, bones for tools, skins for clothing and tepees, and other ingenious uses for nearly every part of their body.  Nothing went to waste.

The Plains

They waited until the timing was perfect. The herd was fat, the fur in the best condition, wind was blowing in the right direction, and temperatures cool enough so the meat would not spoil before they could preserve it.

 Their “ chosen” man ( which was a great honor ) dressed in the skins of a calf. He would “bleat” (or whatever calves do) and sound distressed.  This would lure the Buffalo into an area where they had painstakingly laid piles of rock and branches up to 5 miles long to make what reminded me of an airport runway, up to 5 miles long, leading straight to the cliff.   When the Buffalo had successfully been lured within this “runway”, the “chosen” man would take off running toward the cliff. The Buffalo followed.  The other tribesmen, who had been hiding in the tall grasses wearing buffalo hides, would run up behind them. They yelled, and waved blankets, creating a stampede.  As the Native Peoples chased them, the fellow in front would suddenly veer off, as the panicking herd of Buffalo ran toward cliff! There is only the one chance for that year, and that herd.  If it failed, the natives would not survive the winter.

 That, I believe, are the basic facts.  It was fascinating to learn all the clever, well thought out details they used.  I guess over the 6000 years they had a chance to perfect it.

I thought it pretty easy to imagine why this place got its name.  But was it REALLY that obvious?

 Norm spotted an older Blackfoot native who worked for the Park, so he asked to speak with him a moment.

Blackfoot Tribal member/ Educator who was kind enough to
spend an hour of his time with us.

The kind fellow very quietly asked us to follow him into what seemed the employee lounge.  Well, okay.  That’s very nice of him.  He had us take a seat, and Norm asked how Head-Smashed-in Buffalo jump got its name.  It really was a simple question.  The man, in a very soft voice told us about his education (college educated teacher), his family history, and the plight of the Native Americans, etc. etc. He shared his heritage for more than half an hour, and I was beyond starving.  Perhaps he didn’t understand the question? Did he think we asked how he got HIS name? He must have read my mind, because he quietly said “I’m getting to your question”.  Ten or twenty minutes later, he finally got to the point.  Phew!

He told us of the archeological discovery of the crushed skull of a young man found beneath the jump (which was at an entirely different location). He basically said that the name was conjured up by the White Man to sensationalize the area. The publicized story written in the brochures was not the story told by his ancestors.  Very interesting, but we were glad to get out of there.

Norm wanted to get back and play a round of golf at a local club designed by a renowned Canadian golf course architect.  He found it challenging playing from back tees (lost 7 balls) but enjoyed it.  This was only the second round of golf Norm played in over 10 weeks, partly because he’s had some knee problems.

Thursday, July 22, 2014
Waterton National Park, Alberta

The smoke from the forest fires to the north was filtering down and definitely affecting the spectacular views of the mountains.  What a shame!

We are only here a couple of days, so today we will drive to Waterton Lakes National Park, where Frommers Travel Guide calls it “ the most stunning of the Rocky Mountain Parks “.

 Between this park, here in Alberta, Canada and Glacier National Park in Montana, USA there are no political boundaries. Their respective Rotary Clubs spawned the concept of a Peace Park, and in 1932 it became the World’s first International Peace Park, of which there are now hundreds of them globally.  A good thing, I’d say.  Be friends to our neighbors.

This was taken about half way up to the other, Summit Lake

When you have time and energy for one hike, it’s hard to decide.  What is great and beautiful for one person, is not necessarily wonderful for you.  We tend to like the views from as high as we can get, but the smoke makes us wonder if the physical exertion is worth the effort (said by someone who hates to exercise).

We found a hike to a high spot above Cameron Lake to another, smaller Summit Lake.  We hiked roughly 5.5 miles total, gaining 1000 feet in elevation.  My “fitbit” high tech pedometer said it was the equivalent of 92 stories!  No wonder I was beat!  I truly think the weight of my boots, backpack and 10 lb weight gain this year is making it tough for my old, tired body to go up these steep hills. I am, however doing a lot better than I was a mere month ago.

The mosquitoes were fierce, but pretty place for a picnic

We did our routine shouting “ Hey Bear! We’re here!” but only encountered a few people. As usual, most were younger and scurried up past us.